Mushroom Ragu with Polenta & Arugula

Well. It’s been some time, hasn’t it? I’ve spent the past several weeks reading, thinking, and writing about conflict termination in West Africa. I’m doing a senior thesis in African Studies, and I’ve spent the past month writing about conflict termination and sustainable peace. We had a full rough draft due a week ago. In the lead-up to the draft, I went into self-imposed solitary confinement.  Mostly, this involved creating a zone of peace and tranquility around my desk, complete with a scented candle and two bowls full of reward candy to motivate me. It’s all about the ambiance. These tactics were successful to varying degrees (for a while there, I had very sticky teeth and very little written), but in the end I wound up with an eighty-page draft and two empty bowls of candy.

I finished the draft a week ago, but I couldn’t face the thought of writing a new blog post for another week after that. Both in my work as a student and in my actual job, I spend most of the day writing. Most days, I tend to write over a thousand words. Generally, I enjoy this. Certainly I would much rather spend my day writing than trying to wrap my head around calculus or physics. I’ve tried that already, without much success. Let’s play to our strengths, shall we?

Even still, after a week of intensive writing it is an immense relief to take some time off. I had several other school assignments due around the same time as the thesis draft. This meant that I mostly abandoned cooking for those few weeks, reverting primarily to take-out and many, many eggs. The weekend after I turned my draft in, I made a lemon cake. I’m not much of a baker, but it was such an enormous relief to be able to concentrate on something so completely different than I had been thinking about.

Zesting lemons, sifting flour, creaming butter and sugar. These skills all use a different part of the brain from the one I rely on for those mountains of words. When I’m cooking, my ever-whirring mind, the one that keeps me up at night considering how best to escape my bedroom in case of fire, flood, or ruffian, quiets down for at least a little while. I find this silence useful, both rewarding and refueling. Since finishing that draft, I’ve been in the kitchen nearly every night. Most everything I’ve made has been fairly good, but this dish in particular won Dan’s hearty approval. When he’d finished, he licked his bowl clean and then began eyeing mine.

Mushroom Ragu with Polenta & Arugula

Ragu adapted from Alice Waters’ The Art of Simple Food; Dish inspired by al di là

Ingredients (Serves four):

1 large onion, diced

1 large carrot, peeled and diced

2 celery stalks, diced

1 tbs. olive oil

6 sprigs parsley, chopped

4 sprigs fresh oregano, leaves removed from stems and chopped

1 bay leaf

1/3 cu. diced tomato

1 pound mushrooms, cleaned and sliced (I used a mixture of white button, maitake, and shitake)

4.5 tablespoons butter (divided use)

1/3 cu. heavy cream

3/4 cu. vegetable stock

1.5 cu. arugula, cleaned and dried (divided use)

1 cu. polenta

4 cu. water

1/3 cu. grated parmesan

4 eggs

1 tbs. Vinegar

1. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add onion, carrot, celery and some salt. Cook until tender, but do not let the vegetables start to brown. This should take about eight minutes.

2. Add the fresh herbs and bay leaf. Stir to combine, and allow to cook for another minute. Then add the tomatoes, and cook for five minutes more. Take the mixture off the heat and set aside.

3. Start your polenta. Boil four cups of water in a heavy pan. When the water begins to boil, whisk in four cups of polenta and a tablespoon of salt. Allow the mixture to remain at a bare simmer, and stir occasionally over the next hour.

4. Set three pans (if you’re using three different kinds of mushrooms) over medium heat with some butter and olive oil. I used about half a tablespoon of butter and a splash of olive oil per pan. Once the butter is melted, sauté each kind of mushroom in its own pan until the mushrooms are starting to brown. Remove from the heat and chop each batch of mushrooms finely, until the mushrooms are the same size as the diced carrots and celery. Add the mushrooms to the carrot/celery/tomato mixture, and stir to combine.

5.Turn the heat back on under the vegetable mixture. Add in the vegetable stock and the cream, as well as half a packed cup of the arugula. Bring the mixture to a simmer and allow to heat for fifteen minutes. Then, turn the heat to low and keep warm until the polenta and egg are done.

6. After your polenta has been simmering for an hour, remove it from the heat and stir in the parmesan and butter.

7. Poach your eggs. Bring a saucepan full of water, with a tablespoon of vinegar in it, to a simmer. Crack each egg into its own separate ramekin. When the water begins to simmer, take your spoon and stir the water in circles until it begins to swirl. Drop an egg into the swirling water. The swirl will cause the egg to turn into itself and prevent it from spreading out into the water. Allow it to cook until the white is set, then remove it with a slotted spoon. Repeat the process with the next three eggs.

8. Put it all together! Ladle in two spoonfuls of polenta to each bowl. Top with a packed quarter cup of arugula and two spoonfuls of the mushroom ragu. Place one poached egg on top of each bowl. Now all you’ve got to do is protect your serving from Dan.

Total Carbs: 150

Carbs per serving: 37.5

One Year Diabetes-aversary (Leek Fritters & Bulgur Pilaf)

About a year ago today, Dan was first diagnosed with diabetes. That dismal week aside (raise your hand if you enjoy spending spring break hanging out in intensive care!), we’ve both been fairly cheerful when it comes to navigating this new world of diabetic cooking and eating. Of course, let’s be fair here. For me, it means reading more recipes, thinking more carefully about what I buy at the grocery store, and making an effort to try to have dinner made by about the same time every night. I enjoy doing the first two of those things immensely, often to the neglect of other more pressing matters (I’m looking at you, Serious Eats and Saveur, you time-snatchers!). And the third? Well let’s just say there’s room for improvement.

So for me, this process of learning how to cook for someone with diabetes has been, okay, not fun, but fine. Informative. Interesting. Invaluable (okay, that last might be stretching it a bit). But whatever else it’s been, it’s also been voluntary. Dan and I don’t eat dinner together every night, and on the nights that he’s in class or out of town, I’m free to cook as lazily and unhealthily as I like. Usually, this means Pasta Puttanesca. When I’m feeling fancy, I’ll make a salad. Usually not. These evenings are a break from the everydayness of diabetes, a respite from considering carbs and servings of vegetables. Of course, these are things that it’s always important to think about. But some nights, it’s pleasant to be able to make a ten-minute pot of pasta, pair it with a stiff drink and call it a night.

Dan, on the other hand, has to live with this disease every day. There are no vacations from diabetes for him. It’s not impossible—most days it isn’t even very difficult. But for a guy with an undeniable sweet tooth, who fell for me in large part because I used to work at New York’s number one dessert café, it is a challenge.

Here are a few tips we’ve sussed out over the course of this longa$$ (I take my punctuation from Ke$ha) year:

1) Invest in Popcorn—No, seriously. The wonders of popcorn. Low carb, low calorie popcorn is a fantastic snack. Oh, the toppings that can top popcorn! Barbecue! Kettle corn! Parmesan! The possibilities are endless. For Dan’s upcoming birthday (spoiler alert), he’ll be receiving a three-month popcorn of the month club membership.

2) Try Vegetarian—Lapsed Episcopalian though I may be, I decided to give up eating meat for Lent this year. This is a decision with oh-so-many caveats. I’m still eating meat when I go out to other people’s houses, or if the restaurant I’m at doesn’t have vegetarian options. I’m also still eating fish, because (as Kurt Cobain would say), they don’t have any feelings. Vegetarian cooking allows you so much more room to play with different textures and flavor profiles. It all but ensures that at least half of every plate is made up of vegetables. I’ve also found that it eliminates the desire for carbs in every meal. When you serve a whole hunk o’ meat, you tend to feel the need to “round out the meal” with potatoes or pasta. Not so with vegetarian cuisine.

3) Order the Cheese Plate—Let’s be serious. This is more wishful thinking than reality. Dan and I almost always split dessert when we go out to eat, and while my taste runs to crepe dusted with powdered sugar, he tends to be a fan of the ones that include “caramelized mango slices” topped with ice cream, whipped cream, and berry melba sauce. My ideal dessert is a cheese plate and a glass of good whiskey, both of which are very low carb.

In honor of this one-year anniversary, I’m posting two recipes adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s fantastic cookbook Plenty. Whether you identify as vegetarian or not, do yourself a favor and buy this book. It’s one of the most beautiful and useful cookbooks I’ve seen in a long while. A word to the wise, however: these recipes are not un-fussy. There’s a lot of prep going on, and they take a while to complete. I made these on a Monday night, and let me tell you, this is not a Monday night dinner. More of a Sunday-night supper. But very enjoyable. The leftover bulgur is delicious microwaved in the morning with a  poached egg on top.

 

Leek Fritters with Bulgur Pilaf

Bulgur (Serves 8) or Eight)

A little over 1/3 cu olive oil

4 small onions, thinly sliced

3 red bell peppers, thinly sliced

2.5 tbs tomato paste

1 tbs sugar

1 tsp pink peppercorns (whole)

1 tsp ground coriander

2/3 cu currants

1.5 cu bulgur wheat

2.6 cu water

salt and pepper

Fritter Green Sauce

1/2 cu Greek yogurt

3/4 cu sour cream

3 crushed garlic cloves

2 tbs lemon juice

3 tbs olive oil

1/2 cu chopped parsley leaves

2 cu chopped cilantro

Salt, to taste

Leek Fritters (Serves 4)

3 medium leeks, cleaned and chopped into 1 inch slices

5 shallots, finely chopped

2/3 cu olive oil

1 fresh red chile, seeded and finely chopped

1/2 cu parsley, chopped

3/4 tsp coriander

1 tsp cumin

1/4 tsp tumeric

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp sugar

2 eggs

3/4 cu flour

2 tsp baking powder

2/3 cu mlik

4.5 tbs butter, melted

Salt

1. Make the green sauce for the fritters. Combine all ingredients in a Cuisinart and blend until they form a smooth green sauce. Scoop into a pretty bowl and refrigerate.

2. Begin the bulgur dish: Heat olive oil in a large skillet and sauté the onions and peppers over medium heat until completely tender, 15-20 minutes.

3. When tender, scoop the onion/pepper mixture into a Very Large Pot. Add the tomato paste, sugar, spices, and currents. Stir to combine, then cook for 2 minutes.

4. Add the bulgur, water and some salt and pepper. Mix, then bring to a boil. As soon as it boils, cover, remove from the heat and set aside for AT LEAST 20 minutes. Letting it sit a little longer won’t hurt anyone.

5. In the meantime, begin your fritters. Saute the leeks and shallots over medium heat until soft, about fifteen minutes.

6. When soft, transfer the leek/shallot mixture to a large stainless steel bowl. Add in the chiles, parsley, spices, sugar and salt. Stir to combine and allow to come to room temperature.

7. Combine the flour, baking powder, one of the eggs, milk and melted butter in a bowl. Stir so that it forms a batter.

8. Separate one of the two eggs, discarding the yolk. Whisk  the white until soft peaks begin to form. Fold the egg white into the cooled leek mixture, then gently mix the leeks into the batter.

9. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat in a large frying pan. When oil is hot, use a ladle to scoop four fritters into the frying pan. This should take up about half the batter. Let fry for about four minutes per side, then remove to a warm plate and fry the remaining fritters.

10. Check your bulgur for seasoning. It will almost certainly need salt. Stir and taste again. More salt? Thought so.

11. Serve the fritters immediately with the bulgur and sauce. You should have at least a cup left over of the bulgur.

Carbs in Bulgur: 300

Carbs per serving in Bulgur: 37.5

Carbs in Fritters: 78

Carbs per serving (2 fritters) 20

Total carbs: 378

Total carbs per serving: 57.5

Valentine’s Day: Eggs à la Daniel

Dan and I tend not to go all out on the whole Valentine’s Day thing. This is the result of a whole confluence of factors, none of which have to do with either of us being curmudgeons who disapprove of occasions for chocolate-eating and flower-viewing. The holiday, however, comes directly between the winter holidays and the March holidays (namely our birthdays), right when we are smack-dab out of ideas for presents. It also has an unfortunate tendency of falling on an inconvenient day of the week like, for example, a Tuesday when the two of us are preoccupied with necessities like writing papers and making sure there is something clean to wear the next day. We’ve generally decided to skip presents and pre- or postpone the day’s celebrations to some time later in the week.

Still, say what you will about me, but I am no fool. I fully recognize Valentine’s day as the perfect opportunity to buy something pink and bubbly to drink that Dan will graciously choose not to complain about. It’s also the best time to cook up simple indulgencies. Sure, it’s probably unwise to use a full stick of butter in every meal, but on Valentine’s Day? It’s just another way to say I love you.

This dish is based on one published by Martha Stewart. Martha named the dish after her “editorial director of decorating” (not sure what that means), Kevin. I’ve adapted the dish slightly, and the name completely. This is one of the first things Dan and I cooked together and very likely one of the main reasons he’s decided to stick around so long. I usually serve with a few strips of good bacon and part of a baguette. A perfectly indulgent treat for Valentine’s day!

 

Eggs à la Daniel

Ingredients (Serves two):

2 tomatoes, peeled and halved

2 large cloves of garlic, crushed

1 sprig fresh rosemary (optional)

Olive oil

Salt & pepper

4 eggs

3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon sugar

2 large onions, sliced

Sharp cheddar cheese, thinly sliced

1. Preheat your oven to 325 degrees.

2. Scoop the seeds out of the tomatoes and rub them with olive oil. Place the tomatoes cut side down on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Insert some of the crushed garlic and some of the rosemary leaves underneath each of the tomatoes. Sprinkle each tomato with salt and pepper, and place in the oven. Let bake about 45 minutes, until soft.

3. Heat the butter in a small pan over medium-low heat. When melted, add the onions and the tablespoon of sugar. Stir to coat the onions in both sugar and butter. Leave to caramelize, stirring occasionally. Add a few drops of water if it looks as if the onions are beginning to burn.

4. Remove the tomatoes from the oven when they are done and set aside. Preheat the oven to broil.

5. Heat 1/2 tablespoon of butter in a small, oven-proof, non-stick skillet over medium heat. Crack two eggs into the skillet side by side and heat until the whites are just set. Place two tablespoons of caramelized onions on the whites between the two yolks.  Put two tomatoes over the onions to cover. Cover the whole concoction with the thinly sliced cheddar.

6. Transfer the pan to the broiler, and leave until the cheese is melted, about 30 seconds.

7. Slide the whole delicious mess onto a plate and enjoy!

Carbs: Negligible, unless served with bread.